Saddles can be confusing, and buying the right saddle can be the most confusing experience. Mistakes happen
frequently, and are costly. I want to give you all the background information you need to make the right decision
about your saddle.
Saddles are like anything else, you get what you pay for. I know of a company on eBay who claims to make
saddles for a lot of the bigger companies, one of them a pretty well known company. But because you are cutting
out the middle man they can sell them cheaper. I knew someone who was just learning to be a buckaroo, who
bought into this and bought one of their roping saddles. He went to undo the saddle strings to put some dee
rings on and they were stapled to the top of the seat leather! Not only that, the tree was made from this new type
of polymer they claim is strong enough to rope off of, but yet when he went to cinch his horse you could almost
see and feel it flex on the horse. Needless to say it went back on eBay and he lost $75 on it. And finally listened
to me and shelled out the money for me to make him a saddle. Of course I gave him quite a bit of a discount.
When you buy a saddle you also have to think about how long it will be before you have to start paying for repair
work. There are some really well built high dollar barrel racing saddles out there. But I doubt if they would stand
up to any kind of roping. That’s not what they are made for. But I bet because of the construction they would
make it better then any of these $300 to $800 dollar Wades you see for sale all the time. A well constructed
saddle should cost around $800 to $900 in materials to construct alone.
I was talking to someone not too long ago who made a really good point to me. Most people wouldn't think twice
about buying a heavy duty $30,000 truck to pull their horses, that they will only keep for about 5 years, and will
depreciate like crazy but they have a hard time paying one time for a really good handmade saddle that will last
through their grandkids and never really depreciates. And if you do any roping then do your horse and your
pocket book a favor and shell out the money for a real quality saddle.
First, what is a true handmade custom saddle? Custom is a saddle made for you, the way you ask for it. It is not a
saddle from a manufacturing saddle company. It's just not true. It's like buying anything else, customized means
the way the customer asked for it. So if you don't contact a maker and have him make one custom for you, it is
not a custom saddle. Also, handmade means a saddle built by the hands of a maker, not run through an
assembly line, like a lot of the saddle making companies, that claim to be handmade.
What is the big problem with assembly line type saddles? First, is the fit of the saddle. A lot of hype is being place
out there about fitting a saddle to a horse. Flex trees, expensive ways of fitting your horse to a saddle and
others. A lot of this is to get you to buy more then one saddle. It's just not necessary. This country started on
horseback, with cowboys on cattle drives riding one saddle. They used this one saddle on many different horses,
all day, everyday. Why were they able to do it, and we can't now? The answer, their were no big saddle
companies back then, making saddles to fit just one type horse so that you have to buy more then one saddle.
Just makers. Let's talk why this is.
1. Rigging placement. This is the number one reason horses’ backs get sore. It's not that the tree doesn't fit,
which most people believe. If your tree fits perfect, but the riggings are not in the exact same spot on each side of
the tree, the tree is going to twist on the horse’s back.
2. What the tree is made from. Any tree not made from wood is probably going to flex, if not at first, when it starts
to wear. Never have a saddle with a tree from anything but wood with a bullhide covering. The tree is the
foundation of the saddle and should be the best. I have tried the fiberglass re-enforced trees and don't much
care for them either. To use the fiberglass and keep the bulk off the tree the wood has to be thinned, so to me,
that makes it weaker. Also, the attaching screws and nails are not going to hold as well if they are set partly in
fiberglass instead of all the threads being set into a thicker wood. This is something that a good maker always
makes sure is just exactly perfect. When saddles are run down an assembly real quick, not a lot of emphasis is
placed on rigging placement. I only get my trees from 3 different sources. I order them to the specs of my
customer, and they are hand made, then when I get them I put them through a little test to make sure they are
just right.
3. Different Types of Saddle Bars. There is a lot of talk about the different type bars. Whether it is Arizona,
Northwest, or regular, nowadays there is no real standard. One tree maker’s standards for the bars can be
different than another’s. I use Arizona Wades, which have always seem to fit horses the best. Without going into
too much detail, it is just the way the bars are fit to the horse, the stirrup slots, and the way the bars are fit to the
fork and seat. The first Wade was made for Clifford Wade in 1939. He had a saddle specially made so it would be
comfortable on many different horses. This saddle design has continued to be used since then, and is mostly
what I make. The name Wade refers mainly to a saddle with a fork with no swells. Now I can make other saddles,
ropers, barrels, cutters, and reiners, I just have the trees made with the Arizona type bars.
4. Bar length. The length of the bars has got to be right, too. Too long in the bars and it bothers your horse, too
short and it will not spread your weight enough over his back. I have mine made around 23, unless it is a seat
bigger then a 16, then it has to be just a little longer to get enough behind the cantle.
5. Tree size. Ok, here is where people are really confused. Most tree sizes come in Quarter horse, semi quarter,
full quarter, and there are Arabians and others, such as for gaited horses. Here's the problem. There is no
standard. One tree maker may make a semi with 6 1/4" set on 90 degree which may be a quarter for another
maker. One may have a full with a 6 1/2" on 92 degree which is a semi for another maker. I have also seen where
one maker’s quarter is bigger then semi and vice versa for another maker. I have seen a maker where an
Arabian is bigger than any quarters. What you need to understand here, is that the width is not the only
important thing. The angle at which the bars are attached to the fork in the gullet area is also important. I have
most all of mine made with a 6 1/2" with a 92 degree. Now, because of the angle, some makers would call this a
full. And others because of the distance in the gullet would call this a semi. It doesn't matter. My rig has this size
tree and I use it when giving clinics and throw it up on about any horse you can think and it fits.
6. Quality Construction, and why my saddles are built better.
– Superior Quality Leather Using the Best Part of the Hide for the Job. Leather quality is where the major
expense can come in. I see saddles from companies that are brand new for less than what it costs me in leather
to make a saddle. I just ordered two sides of chestnut for a saddle that cost me $408. I only get my leather from 3
different companies. The hides I use are all vegetable tanned and not chromed. I can tell the difference in the two
types of tanning just looking at a picture. Don't fall for the ads that say, "We only use American tanned leather,"
which means nothing. How it is tanned and the grade of the leather are what is important here. What’s the
difference? The most important difference is suppleness of the leather. Why is this important? Comfort of the
horse. Yes, leather, and not the tree size, can sometimes be what is making a horse hate the saddle. They also
use statements about the company they get their leather from. All companies sell good and poor grades of
leather. The grade is what is important not the company it comes from. So just because it says "made with
herman oak leather". Doesn't mean it was top grade leather from that company.
Let me explain. First, when a maker makes a saddle, two sides of leather are used and in some cases a little
more. Now, this is a tanned side of a cow. Thickness of leather is one selling point on most saddles. But that is
not just the important thing here. One is where the leather is cut on the side for what purpose it has on the
saddle. Example: the top of a side (actually along the back of a cow) is the strongest and thickest part, so that's
were I cut the stirrup leathers from and right under them the rigging leathers. This is just one example and I won't
go into every part of the saddle, except to discuss where skirts come in. Have you ever seen an ad for a saddle
where they show the back of the saddle to show how thick the leather is on the back of the skirts? It is all just a
selling point. Too thick and the leather is not forgiving enough back there for the horse – especially if it is
chromed tan and doesn't give much at all. So for the rear of the skirts you don't want the thickest, and you want it
to give. I still use 14 oz leather and it's not belly leather and I still double block them, it's just all where I cut it from
on the side. The back of the skirts are farther down the side of the cow than the front, the front is were you want
it kind of thick and strong, so it protects the horse from the rigging when you cinch your saddle. This is another
example of a huge difference between true hand-made saddles and assembly line saddles. Assembly line
saddles parts are cut with a big die and who knows where it comes from on the cow. (The term ounces refers to
how the thickness of leather is measured. A 14oz weight is around 1/4 thick or just shy, and it goes down or up
about 1/32 according to the ounce weight).
Basically it costs at least $800 to $900 in materials to make a good quality saddle nowadays. So you tell me
where a saddle maker is cutting costs to be able to sell saddles so cheap? Chances are they are using the
cheapest grade of leather. Buying a $500 saddle is kind of like buying $10 shoes that hurt your feet. Pretty soon
you have a ten pair of shoes you can’t wear and three or four saddles that you can’t use. You would have been
better off to buy one good pair of $100 shoes or one good $2000 saddle.
– High Quality Tree Construction. Most saddles I see for sale on eBay are priced so low, the trees I get cost that
much. The trees I use cost around $240. They are hand selected and customized to meet the needs of the
individual buyer. Why does the tree matter so much? Lets talk about rider comfort. Seat comfort. This is where it
gets individual. That’s why my process is to order a tree to the customer’s specs. I make the ground seat, ship it
to the customer with instructions to sit in it for awhile to make sure it is comfortable. And then it gets back to me,
with any changes necessary. And I finish it. Not very often but every once in awhile there is a change to be made.
Example I sent a seat off to a guy in Spain. The seat was comfortable but the rise started too far back and was
too much for him. Simple – all I had to do then was take some of the rise out and move the start of it forward
some. Now if this process hadn't been done, he would have bought a saddle uncomfortable for him, would have
had to sell and try another. Waste of money. Another guy I sent a seat off to wanted mostly no rise and wanted to
be sitting as close to on the tree as possible. Simple again. Just take a couple of pieces of leather out of the seat.
The customization process can take anywhere from 4 to 6 months beginning with having the tree made all the
way to finishing the saddle. But, that isn't as much time as having to keep buying saddles to find the one you like.
– Natural Shearling Fleece Linings. Another vital part of a saddle is type of material (natural shearling vs.
synthetic) used for the fleece lining of the saddle. I only use real wool and no synthetics. All the wool I use is
vegetable tanned and not chrome. I have even seen an ad that says "quality artificial wool." Cheap saddle
makers use basically synthetics. Real wool does cost more than fake, so if a saddle maker is skimping here, you
might want to think about where corners are being cut. Of course everyone knows synthetics heats the horses
back up too quick.
– Finishing Touches of the Custom Saddler Maker. There are so many other little things I do when I make your
saddle for you!
• I put the twist in the stirrups to take pressure off the riders knees, which actually makes the horse
more comfortable. Think about it, if you are riding with discomfort your horse is going to be uncomfortable.
• I hand burnish all the edges instead of the quicker method, edge dressing, to give the saddle a more
finished appearance. I hand burnish all edges twice, once with liquid glycerine, and once with bees’ wax. This
helps seal the oils in the leather.
• I make the hand holes a little bigger then most, to allow a little more air down the horse’s back.
• Also, I see a lot of Wades being made with long skirts in the back, but I like to keep the skirts a little
shorter. This gives the horse a little more comfort.
• I put a butterfly in the rear skirt on most saddles to allow some give over the horse’s back.
• When I lace the rear of the skirts together I start about one inch in from the rear so they give a little
more. Most saddles are laced all the way to the back and which doesn’t allow them to give at all.
• I also angle the rear skirts up just a little bit for more horse comfort.
– Lady Wade Saddles. I use a slightly different skirt rigging on my Lady Wade. Why? The purpose of the skirt is
to give comfort to the horse from the rest of the saddle. How can it protect the horse from the rigging if the rigging
is in the skirt? I know the purpose of moving the rigging to the skirt is to reduce the weight. That’s not the right
way to reduce the weight. I have made saddles around 28 pounds with a standard flat plate rigging, that I assure
you will withstand the rigors of roping type work just fine. How? Simple – knowing where it is most important for
heavier weight leather and where heavier weight leather isn't important and actually less preferred, just there for
looks. I always use 14oz for stirrup leathers and rigging and for weight if so desire I use 12oz in other spots, (my
Lady Wade). But 10oz to 12oz is what most companies use for the whole saddle. (by the way, fyi, ounces is how
the thickness of leather is measure, 14oz is around 1/4 thick or just shy, and it goes down or up about 1/32)
Think about it, for the rigging to be as strong as possible it has to be the strongest and thickest part of the cow.
Remember earlier what we said about the skirts being too thick? So for my Lady Wade saddles I reduce the
weight in only the places that will not affect the comfort, strength or performance of the saddle, but they are still
strong enough for roping.
frequently, and are costly. I want to give you all the background information you need to make the right decision
about your saddle.
Saddles are like anything else, you get what you pay for. I know of a company on eBay who claims to make
saddles for a lot of the bigger companies, one of them a pretty well known company. But because you are cutting
out the middle man they can sell them cheaper. I knew someone who was just learning to be a buckaroo, who
bought into this and bought one of their roping saddles. He went to undo the saddle strings to put some dee
rings on and they were stapled to the top of the seat leather! Not only that, the tree was made from this new type
of polymer they claim is strong enough to rope off of, but yet when he went to cinch his horse you could almost
see and feel it flex on the horse. Needless to say it went back on eBay and he lost $75 on it. And finally listened
to me and shelled out the money for me to make him a saddle. Of course I gave him quite a bit of a discount.
When you buy a saddle you also have to think about how long it will be before you have to start paying for repair
work. There are some really well built high dollar barrel racing saddles out there. But I doubt if they would stand
up to any kind of roping. That’s not what they are made for. But I bet because of the construction they would
make it better then any of these $300 to $800 dollar Wades you see for sale all the time. A well constructed
saddle should cost around $800 to $900 in materials to construct alone.
I was talking to someone not too long ago who made a really good point to me. Most people wouldn't think twice
about buying a heavy duty $30,000 truck to pull their horses, that they will only keep for about 5 years, and will
depreciate like crazy but they have a hard time paying one time for a really good handmade saddle that will last
through their grandkids and never really depreciates. And if you do any roping then do your horse and your
pocket book a favor and shell out the money for a real quality saddle.
First, what is a true handmade custom saddle? Custom is a saddle made for you, the way you ask for it. It is not a
saddle from a manufacturing saddle company. It's just not true. It's like buying anything else, customized means
the way the customer asked for it. So if you don't contact a maker and have him make one custom for you, it is
not a custom saddle. Also, handmade means a saddle built by the hands of a maker, not run through an
assembly line, like a lot of the saddle making companies, that claim to be handmade.
What is the big problem with assembly line type saddles? First, is the fit of the saddle. A lot of hype is being place
out there about fitting a saddle to a horse. Flex trees, expensive ways of fitting your horse to a saddle and
others. A lot of this is to get you to buy more then one saddle. It's just not necessary. This country started on
horseback, with cowboys on cattle drives riding one saddle. They used this one saddle on many different horses,
all day, everyday. Why were they able to do it, and we can't now? The answer, their were no big saddle
companies back then, making saddles to fit just one type horse so that you have to buy more then one saddle.
Just makers. Let's talk why this is.
1. Rigging placement. This is the number one reason horses’ backs get sore. It's not that the tree doesn't fit,
which most people believe. If your tree fits perfect, but the riggings are not in the exact same spot on each side of
the tree, the tree is going to twist on the horse’s back.
2. What the tree is made from. Any tree not made from wood is probably going to flex, if not at first, when it starts
to wear. Never have a saddle with a tree from anything but wood with a bullhide covering. The tree is the
foundation of the saddle and should be the best. I have tried the fiberglass re-enforced trees and don't much
care for them either. To use the fiberglass and keep the bulk off the tree the wood has to be thinned, so to me,
that makes it weaker. Also, the attaching screws and nails are not going to hold as well if they are set partly in
fiberglass instead of all the threads being set into a thicker wood. This is something that a good maker always
makes sure is just exactly perfect. When saddles are run down an assembly real quick, not a lot of emphasis is
placed on rigging placement. I only get my trees from 3 different sources. I order them to the specs of my
customer, and they are hand made, then when I get them I put them through a little test to make sure they are
just right.
3. Different Types of Saddle Bars. There is a lot of talk about the different type bars. Whether it is Arizona,
Northwest, or regular, nowadays there is no real standard. One tree maker’s standards for the bars can be
different than another’s. I use Arizona Wades, which have always seem to fit horses the best. Without going into
too much detail, it is just the way the bars are fit to the horse, the stirrup slots, and the way the bars are fit to the
fork and seat. The first Wade was made for Clifford Wade in 1939. He had a saddle specially made so it would be
comfortable on many different horses. This saddle design has continued to be used since then, and is mostly
what I make. The name Wade refers mainly to a saddle with a fork with no swells. Now I can make other saddles,
ropers, barrels, cutters, and reiners, I just have the trees made with the Arizona type bars.
4. Bar length. The length of the bars has got to be right, too. Too long in the bars and it bothers your horse, too
short and it will not spread your weight enough over his back. I have mine made around 23, unless it is a seat
bigger then a 16, then it has to be just a little longer to get enough behind the cantle.
5. Tree size. Ok, here is where people are really confused. Most tree sizes come in Quarter horse, semi quarter,
full quarter, and there are Arabians and others, such as for gaited horses. Here's the problem. There is no
standard. One tree maker may make a semi with 6 1/4" set on 90 degree which may be a quarter for another
maker. One may have a full with a 6 1/2" on 92 degree which is a semi for another maker. I have also seen where
one maker’s quarter is bigger then semi and vice versa for another maker. I have seen a maker where an
Arabian is bigger than any quarters. What you need to understand here, is that the width is not the only
important thing. The angle at which the bars are attached to the fork in the gullet area is also important. I have
most all of mine made with a 6 1/2" with a 92 degree. Now, because of the angle, some makers would call this a
full. And others because of the distance in the gullet would call this a semi. It doesn't matter. My rig has this size
tree and I use it when giving clinics and throw it up on about any horse you can think and it fits.
6. Quality Construction, and why my saddles are built better.
– Superior Quality Leather Using the Best Part of the Hide for the Job. Leather quality is where the major
expense can come in. I see saddles from companies that are brand new for less than what it costs me in leather
to make a saddle. I just ordered two sides of chestnut for a saddle that cost me $408. I only get my leather from 3
different companies. The hides I use are all vegetable tanned and not chromed. I can tell the difference in the two
types of tanning just looking at a picture. Don't fall for the ads that say, "We only use American tanned leather,"
which means nothing. How it is tanned and the grade of the leather are what is important here. What’s the
difference? The most important difference is suppleness of the leather. Why is this important? Comfort of the
horse. Yes, leather, and not the tree size, can sometimes be what is making a horse hate the saddle. They also
use statements about the company they get their leather from. All companies sell good and poor grades of
leather. The grade is what is important not the company it comes from. So just because it says "made with
herman oak leather". Doesn't mean it was top grade leather from that company.
Let me explain. First, when a maker makes a saddle, two sides of leather are used and in some cases a little
more. Now, this is a tanned side of a cow. Thickness of leather is one selling point on most saddles. But that is
not just the important thing here. One is where the leather is cut on the side for what purpose it has on the
saddle. Example: the top of a side (actually along the back of a cow) is the strongest and thickest part, so that's
were I cut the stirrup leathers from and right under them the rigging leathers. This is just one example and I won't
go into every part of the saddle, except to discuss where skirts come in. Have you ever seen an ad for a saddle
where they show the back of the saddle to show how thick the leather is on the back of the skirts? It is all just a
selling point. Too thick and the leather is not forgiving enough back there for the horse – especially if it is
chromed tan and doesn't give much at all. So for the rear of the skirts you don't want the thickest, and you want it
to give. I still use 14 oz leather and it's not belly leather and I still double block them, it's just all where I cut it from
on the side. The back of the skirts are farther down the side of the cow than the front, the front is were you want
it kind of thick and strong, so it protects the horse from the rigging when you cinch your saddle. This is another
example of a huge difference between true hand-made saddles and assembly line saddles. Assembly line
saddles parts are cut with a big die and who knows where it comes from on the cow. (The term ounces refers to
how the thickness of leather is measured. A 14oz weight is around 1/4 thick or just shy, and it goes down or up
about 1/32 according to the ounce weight).
Basically it costs at least $800 to $900 in materials to make a good quality saddle nowadays. So you tell me
where a saddle maker is cutting costs to be able to sell saddles so cheap? Chances are they are using the
cheapest grade of leather. Buying a $500 saddle is kind of like buying $10 shoes that hurt your feet. Pretty soon
you have a ten pair of shoes you can’t wear and three or four saddles that you can’t use. You would have been
better off to buy one good pair of $100 shoes or one good $2000 saddle.
– High Quality Tree Construction. Most saddles I see for sale on eBay are priced so low, the trees I get cost that
much. The trees I use cost around $240. They are hand selected and customized to meet the needs of the
individual buyer. Why does the tree matter so much? Lets talk about rider comfort. Seat comfort. This is where it
gets individual. That’s why my process is to order a tree to the customer’s specs. I make the ground seat, ship it
to the customer with instructions to sit in it for awhile to make sure it is comfortable. And then it gets back to me,
with any changes necessary. And I finish it. Not very often but every once in awhile there is a change to be made.
Example I sent a seat off to a guy in Spain. The seat was comfortable but the rise started too far back and was
too much for him. Simple – all I had to do then was take some of the rise out and move the start of it forward
some. Now if this process hadn't been done, he would have bought a saddle uncomfortable for him, would have
had to sell and try another. Waste of money. Another guy I sent a seat off to wanted mostly no rise and wanted to
be sitting as close to on the tree as possible. Simple again. Just take a couple of pieces of leather out of the seat.
The customization process can take anywhere from 4 to 6 months beginning with having the tree made all the
way to finishing the saddle. But, that isn't as much time as having to keep buying saddles to find the one you like.
– Natural Shearling Fleece Linings. Another vital part of a saddle is type of material (natural shearling vs.
synthetic) used for the fleece lining of the saddle. I only use real wool and no synthetics. All the wool I use is
vegetable tanned and not chrome. I have even seen an ad that says "quality artificial wool." Cheap saddle
makers use basically synthetics. Real wool does cost more than fake, so if a saddle maker is skimping here, you
might want to think about where corners are being cut. Of course everyone knows synthetics heats the horses
back up too quick.
– Finishing Touches of the Custom Saddler Maker. There are so many other little things I do when I make your
saddle for you!
• I put the twist in the stirrups to take pressure off the riders knees, which actually makes the horse
more comfortable. Think about it, if you are riding with discomfort your horse is going to be uncomfortable.
• I hand burnish all the edges instead of the quicker method, edge dressing, to give the saddle a more
finished appearance. I hand burnish all edges twice, once with liquid glycerine, and once with bees’ wax. This
helps seal the oils in the leather.
• I make the hand holes a little bigger then most, to allow a little more air down the horse’s back.
• Also, I see a lot of Wades being made with long skirts in the back, but I like to keep the skirts a little
shorter. This gives the horse a little more comfort.
• I put a butterfly in the rear skirt on most saddles to allow some give over the horse’s back.
• When I lace the rear of the skirts together I start about one inch in from the rear so they give a little
more. Most saddles are laced all the way to the back and which doesn’t allow them to give at all.
• I also angle the rear skirts up just a little bit for more horse comfort.
– Lady Wade Saddles. I use a slightly different skirt rigging on my Lady Wade. Why? The purpose of the skirt is
to give comfort to the horse from the rest of the saddle. How can it protect the horse from the rigging if the rigging
is in the skirt? I know the purpose of moving the rigging to the skirt is to reduce the weight. That’s not the right
way to reduce the weight. I have made saddles around 28 pounds with a standard flat plate rigging, that I assure
you will withstand the rigors of roping type work just fine. How? Simple – knowing where it is most important for
heavier weight leather and where heavier weight leather isn't important and actually less preferred, just there for
looks. I always use 14oz for stirrup leathers and rigging and for weight if so desire I use 12oz in other spots, (my
Lady Wade). But 10oz to 12oz is what most companies use for the whole saddle. (by the way, fyi, ounces is how
the thickness of leather is measure, 14oz is around 1/4 thick or just shy, and it goes down or up about 1/32)
Think about it, for the rigging to be as strong as possible it has to be the strongest and thickest part of the cow.
Remember earlier what we said about the skirts being too thick? So for my Lady Wade saddles I reduce the
weight in only the places that will not affect the comfort, strength or performance of the saddle, but they are still
strong enough for roping.
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